It would be my pleasure to suggest some cardigans. This thread will include a range of options, including some that…

It would be my pleasure to suggest some cardigans. This thread will include a range of options, including some that stretch our imagination of what a cardigan can look like. It will also include tips on how to repair moth-ridden clothes. And find cheaper alternatives. 🧵

James May@MrJamesMay · Sep 22, 2026

Dear @dieworkwear - my faithful cardigan has been destroyed by the murderous moth, and I need a replacement. Buttons or zipper, I’m not fussed. Needs to fulfil around-the-house and down-the-pub roles. I don’t want to look like a fart and neither a clothes horse. Must be comforting. Any suggestions?

We'll start with the most basic form: the one everyone knows, if only because they likely saw it on Mr. Rogers as a child. The basic cardigan is a knitted garment with an open front, which evolved from the knitted waistcoats worn in the 19th century. However, they can be made in any number of places and from any number of materials. For value for money, I favor lambswool versions knitted in Scotland for two reasons. First, lambswool often offers a bit more heft and warmth than thinner merinos, but is more affordable than cashmere. Second, Scottish mills are among the best in the world (notice I say mills, not brands). A mill produces knitwear; a brand designs and sells knitwear. William Lockie happens to be a brand that owns and operates its own mill, but plenty of old Scottish mills have shuttered over the years and offshored their production (e.g., Pringle). There's nothing wrong with producing things in other countries, but it also means quality can change from season to season. By contrast, William Lockie's quality is always the same — yarns sourced from Todd & Duncan and garments knitted tightly. Companies trying to cut costs often knit a garment with a lot of slack to save on material, but this makes the garment prone to stretching out. William Lockie knits have that kind of quality you associate with your grandfather's wardrobe — not too fashionable or luxurious, just well-made knitwear in classic designs. These William Lockie cardigans are $265 at the online shop Baltzar. Very good value for money and what I would personally purchase if I were on the market for one today. That said, William Lockie is not the only worthwhile producer in that part of the world. I would take a look at Scott & Charters, Begg & Co., Hawico, Barrie Knitwear, Johnstons of Elgin, and John Smedley. I bought a cardigan from John Smedley more than 20 years ago, and it's still going strong.

We'll now move on to something a bit more specialized. Lemmermayer's alpaca cardigans have a unique cellular stitch that supposedly helps regulate body temperature. It's said they keep you cool when it's warm and warm when it's chilly. I don't know if that's true, but I've always wanted one because it was Jackie Gleason's cardigan of choice, and he often wore it on the golf course. Lemmermayer's cardigans were especially popular among golfers in the mid-20th century, which may be why that extremely plain front edge gives off a kind of retro vibe. In the United States, you can find them at Maus & Hoffman, a store patronized by older men in Palm Beach, Florida. This is the kind of cardigan you wear with gabardine slacks and loafers—more of an American sporty vibe than an English gentleman's.

There's also the shawl-collar cardigan, which has a detail that comes from smoking jackets. As such, I've always thought of these knits as something you'd only wear at home — maybe to the local cafe for a quick cup of coffee while reading a book. But I've also seen many stylish men wear them in more "out and about" settings, and they looked terrific. When you set out to buy one of these cardigans, I think you should go for one with a thick, generous collar, which not only looks better but also shows the manufacturer didn't skimp on material. This is also a more traditional look. In a 1979 Brooks Brothers Christmas catalog, the company recommended wearing one of its three-ply Shetland shawl-collar cardigans in lieu of a sport jacket, likely for when someone is hosting a holiday party at home. A chunky shawl collar cardigan can be teamed with anything from gray flannel trousers to tan chinos to blue jeans. It looks at home with oxford cloth button-down shirts, T-shirts, and even chambray work shirts. For something extra warm and jaunty, layer it over a thin turtleneck — knit on knit. The difference in texture and heft will help distinguish the two pieces (harder to do with one of the thinner knits mentioned above). Like many of the options on this list, these can be made in any number of places and from any number of materials. Those looking for value should opt for lambswool (or its finer version, super geelong). Cashmere feels extremely soft and indulgent, making it a pleasure to wear against bare skin (noticeable when you're in a T-shirt), while lambswool can be a bit itchier (easier to ignore if you wear long sleeves). William Lockie again makes my favorite largely because they use Todd & Duncan yarns, which are second to none, and knit their garments tightly (no slack). But you can again get them from any number of places: Scott & Charters, Begg & Co., Campbell's of Beauly, The Armory, Drake's, Colhay's, and O'Connell's. For particularly good value, check out Cordings and Spier & Mackay.

We move into another specialized category. Ralph Lauren occasionally makes cardigans with Southwestern motifs through his RRL and Ralph Lauren Purple Label sublabels. There are two types: machine-made and hand-knit. If money is no object, then I think RRL's handknit cardigans have no equal. They are typically made with a unique blend of yarns (such as wool-linen-cotton) and feature tremendous visual depth. You can see all of the texture and variegated color, along with the natural variation that comes through hand knitting, in the last slide. These are not really cardigans in the Mr. Rogers sense, both in appearance and feel. They function more like outerwear. If you mostly wear the chunky shawl-collar cardigan at home, then this is something you only really wear outside. Wearing one inside would make as much sense as putting on an overcoat in your living room because they're very warm and heavy. The prices are exorbitant, but they are truly heirloom pieces. I think they look particularly good with workwear: jeans, chambray shirts, Army-style chinos, suede chukkas, and the like. They're also great if you like the idea of a cardigan but don't want to look overly academic.

While we're on the topic of knitwear as outerwear, there's also the Cowichan, which is a type of knitwear produced by First Nation people in and around the Cowichan Valley of British Columbia, Canada. These sweaters are typically rough and rugged — a friend once joked that he thought he found a twig somewhere in his Cowichan when it arrived. But this only underscores their durability, warmth, and handmade nature. I wrote a thread long ago about Cowichan sweaters. Now that the US is engaged in a pointless trade war with Canada, I regret not buying one earlier. However, I still keep an eye on Knit With Purpose and Cheryl's Trading Post, the two companies I mentioned in this thread. I like Cowichans because they represent a beautiful craft tradition and seem like something you can wear in the morning while going down to a coffeeshop. But again, if you're looking for something that you can wear at home, this is probably not really it.

derek guy@dieworkwear · Feb 4, 2025

There are a bunch of companies nowadays that sell "Cowichan knits," including Canadian Sweater Company, Kanata, Filson, RRL, and Todd Snyder. But I never know if they were made by a member of the Coast Salish Nation. (Appreciate Buck Mason being upfront with "Cowichan-inspired")

I'll mention three more specialized cardigans. The descriptions correspond to the photos, in the order shown. — Inis Meain is one of my favorite knitwear producers. They're based on one of the more remote Aran Islands, where they keep an archive of sweaters locals wore in generations past. Unlike many Aran producers, which are often making for tourists, Inis Meain produces for the luxury market abroad, so they typically source finer, more noble fibers. When you see terms like "merino" on their site, the knits don't feel like the merinos you encounter at local shops. They often use substantially more material, which gives their sweaters a bit of heft. They have a range of cardigans, including what they call their "pub jacket," which I imagine a fisherman may have worn on the island in years past. — Speaking of which, Inverallan is another company in that area of the world that makes exceptional knitwear. On a menswear forum, the company's 6A shawl collar cardigan was particularly popular for a number of years. These aren't as soft as Inis Meain's knitwear, but they carry a similar heritage and come in cabled designs. Plus, they're hand-knitted for a reasonable price. Back in 2008 or so, your sweater would come with a signed card from the knitter who made your sweater (not sure if they still do that). — Finally, Chumula's cardigans are hand-knitted by indigenous people in Mexico. These sweaters have a very soft, spongy, handmade quality — sort of like the beanie that a knitting friend might make you, but in body form. Not the hardest-wearing, but comfy.

Finally, I would be remiss if I didn't mention repair services. If you've found that a moth has eaten a hole into your favorite garment, consider sending it to a place that offers invisible mending. Invisible mending means filling the space with new material in a way that makes the repair invisible. In the photos below, you can see a blue sweater that I sent to an invisible mender about thirteen years ago. Once repaired, the sweater looks new. This service works on knits and wovens (I've had it done on sweaters, suits, and overcoats). In the United States, readers can try Rave FabriCARE (Scottsdale, AZ), French American Reweaving (NYC), and Without A Trace (Chicago). All three places take mail-ins if you're not local. I believe James is based in England so that he can try London Invisible Mending and The Valet. The cost will depend on a number of things: the size of the repair, the type of yarn and material, the design on the sweater, the number of holes, and more.

Lastly, I've included a range of options above for people with different budgets. This includes the more basic William Lockie cardigan ($265) and superlative Ralph Lauren Purple Label pieces (around $2,000). However, I focus only on quality: stuff that's made well, built to last, and comes in a design I think has staying power in your wardrobe. I've excluded anything that I think is badly made or overly trendy. To me, it's better to save up and buy one beautiful thing that you'll wear for a long time, rather than multiple cheap things that you'll eventually discard. However, I understand that $265 can be a lot of money for some people, especially if it's a style they're just considering trying. The good news is that you can get many of these knits for considerably less on the second-hand market. You can find cashmere sweaters produced in Scotland on eBay for about $50. Here's a thread below on how to find those items. Remember: the old engineering adage "good, fast, cheap; pick two" applies to your wardrobe as much as anything. If you want a good wardrobe, you'll have to spend time or money. If you can't spend money, you will have to learn to shop on sale or second-hand using the tips and tricks I've outlined below. I hope these suggestions help James and everyone else find their perfect cardigan this season.

derek guy@dieworkwear · Oct 6, 2024

I want to show you how to get some deals on eBay. Since I write about menswear, this thread will be focused on men's clothing and accessories. But my guess is that you can apply these tricks to other categories. 🧵