derek guy
@dieworkwear · view on X ↗
Menswear writer. Editor at @putthison. Bylines at The New York Times, Bloomberg, The Financial Times, Politico, Esquire, and Mr. Porter
- 1.5M followers
- 16 threads on ThreadOut
Unrolled threads
Every thread by derek guy that readers unrolled on ThreadOut.
derek guy@dieworkwearNaturally, I disagree. In this thread, I will explain two things. First, why these outfits looks terrible to most people. Second, why it's you, not me, who lacks taste. 🧵
SummaryThis thread explains classic men's tailoring rules, particularly why tan shoes often look bad: they're too light and draw the eye downward, breaking the rule that focus should be on the face via the V-shaped torso area. The author argues that traditional taste derives from ruling-class aesthetics, and those wanting to wear tan should match cool color temperatures and lighter suits.Aug 6, 202618 tweets♥ 6.2Kderek guy@dieworkwearDisagree with some of the reactions to this tweet. Will offer what I think is a better framework for understanding when you should cuff your jeans. 🧵
SummaryA thread explaining the history of cuffed jeans, distinguishing between practical reasons (fabric shrinkage before sanforization in the 1970s) and aesthetic ones (cultural capital and style preference in communities like Japan). The author proposes thinking of cuffing as a stylistic choice aligned with modern vs. traditional aesthetics, like sans-serif vs. serif fonts, rather than following arbitrary fashion trends.Jul 30, 202612 tweets♥ 5.7Kderek guy@dieworkwearDon't know anything about Andy Burnham, but I recognize the room in the middle photo. That's Private White VC. Let me tell you about them. 🧵
SummaryA thread explaining Private White VC, a British luxury clothing manufacturer in Manchester that revived a historic garment factory in 2008 and now produces high-end workwear using traditional British textiles and techniques. The author argues this represents the correct model for reshoring manufacturing in post-industrial economies—focusing on premium products rather than cheap goods.Jul 26, 202620 tweets♥ 8.7Kderek guy@dieworkwearOne day, "It" will happen, by which I mean sudden and unexpected news that you want to celebrate. In such cases, you will want the right outfit. 🧵
SummaryThe thread discusses building a versatile wardrobe of special occasion outfits to wear when celebrating unexpected good news. It provides outfit recommendations for both formal evening celebrations (tuxedos, dinner suits) and daytime celebrations (cheerier suits, sport coats), along with styling tips and brand suggestions across various formality levels.Apr 4, 202614 tweets♥ 32.6Kderek guy@dieworkwearExcited to announce I'm starting a new column at Bloomberg about the business of fashion. The first piece is about how to re-shore US apparel manufacturing. Instead of using mass deportations and tari...
SummaryA new Bloomberg column argues that instead of mass deportations and tariffs, the US should re-shore apparel manufacturing by moving upstream to luxury goods production with proper government support, which would create better jobs without significantly raising consumer prices.Jan 22, 20262 tweets♥ 10.7Kderek guy@dieworkwearI disagree. At least in appearance, both of these men are more culturally American than Eric. I will explain. 🧵
SummaryA thread analyzing how clothing choices reflect cultural identity in America, arguing that wearing white dress shirts represents traditional mainstream American style while black dress shirts historically signaled outsider or lower-class status, particularly among immigrant communities.Oct 26, 202511 tweets♥ 12.6Kderek guy@dieworkwearHave you ever noticed that people dressed better in the past? Even in the summer, when it was scorching hot? Why is this? 🧵
SummaryPeople dressed better in the past not because they were slimmer or richer, but because their clothes had better shape, drape, and detailing through tailoring techniques, specialized natural fabrics, and willingness to accept minor discomfort. Modern clothing prioritizes comfort and clings to the body, lacking the distinctive silhouettes, textures, and proportions that made past fashion aesthetically superior.Aug 13, 202525 tweets♥ 39.6Kderek guy@dieworkwearI disagree. I will tell you what's wrong with his jeans. 🧵
SummaryA detailed fashion analysis explaining why low-rise jeans don't work well with tailored jackets. The thread breaks down classic tailoring principles, explains the structural differences between jeans and trousers, and recommends specific jean brands and cuts that pair better with sport coats.Aug 5, 202510 tweets♥ 124Kderek guy@dieworkwearI respectfully disagree. To me, this represents a poor financial decision. Let me show you why. 🧵
SummaryA thread comparing a $350 Saint Laurent card case made with machine-sewn stamped calfskin to handmade alternatives from independent artisans like Chester Mox, arguing that small craftspeople offer better quality and value than luxury designer brands that rely on celebrity endorsements and profit margins on accessories.May 31, 202518 tweets♥ 53Kderek guy@dieworkwearI'll tell you what goes on here. 🧵
SummaryHarris Tweed is the only legally protected fabric, requiring wool to be dyed, spun, woven, and finished in Scotland's Outer Hebrides. The thread explores its history from crofter production to modern mills and independent hand-loom weavers, explains its characteristic rough texture from local blackface sheep wool, and discusses its use in men's tailoring and alternative products.Oct 22, 202417 tweets♥ 69.2Kderek guy@dieworkwearI disagree and will explain why you are wrong. 🧵
SummaryA detailed critique of how modern 'Twitter traditionalists' misunderstand aristocratic dress codes by confusing Trump's flashy businessman style with true patrician/Old Money fashion. The thread explains the historical distinctions between Ivy League/WASP aesthetic (soft shoulders, inherited patina, understated elegance) and Trump's heavily padded Brioni suits with bright red ties, arguing that real generational wealth displays subtlety and restraint, not ostentation.Oct 22, 202422 tweets♥ 48Kderek guy@dieworkwearYes, I can. 🧵
SummaryFabric weight, measured in ounces or grams per square meter, significantly affects how clothing hangs and wrinkles. Heavier fabrics (12-14oz for suits) are more forgiving and hold their shape better, while lighter fabrics show wrinkles more readily; historically men wore much heavier fabrics that looked sharper, but modern lightweight 'luxurious' fabrics require better tailoring to compensate.Oct 16, 202415 tweets♥ 134Kderek guy@dieworkwearSome misinformation in today's US presidential debate about who bears the cost of tariffs. So let's talk about how tariffs affect what you pay for a suit. 🧵
SummaryA detailed breakdown of how 25% tariffs on imported suits from China increase consumer prices by $150-240 per suit through the supply chain, with US brands passing the tariff costs to shoppers via their typical 60% markups. The thread argues that while tariffs aim to incentivize domestic manufacturing, most consumers won't voluntarily pay higher prices for US-made clothing.Sep 11, 202420 tweets♥ 40.8Kderek guy@dieworkwearSome style lessons from Gerard Basquiat, a Haitian immigrant whose son helped define the New York art scene and neo-expressionism. 🧵
SummaryA detailed thread analyzing Gerard Basquiat's tailoring choices, including notch lapel placement, trouser rise, accessory selection, and overall aesthetic principles that created his quiet sophistication. The thread uses Basquiat's style as a framework for teaching men's fashion fundamentals like fit, proportion, texture, and avoiding common fashion mistakes.Sep 10, 202418 tweets♥ 38.4Kderek guy@dieworkwearAlain Delon passed away tonight and I'm again reminded that we're losing a generation of men who possessed an incredible sense of style. But what made Delon's style so extraordinary? Let's explore. 🧵...
SummaryA tribute to Alain Delon's exceptional style, analyzing what made his fashion sense timeless: comfortable, well-tailored clothing with proper silhouette, quality craftsmanship, thoughtful detail choices, and the incorporation of texture and aesthetic direction even in casual wear.Aug 18, 202419 tweets♥ 58.2Kderek guy@dieworkwear